Over the summer I've been doing lots of glaze testing, and one of these has been to find my own Wood Ash Glaze recipe. It's not an easy process. I gathered together several recipes found in pottery books. All of them had a different take on the process - and sometimes conflicting ideas! I tried out four of the recipes with varying success, but now I think have my own version.
The first thing I had to do was get a source of wood ash. You need at least a kilo of good grey/white ash with as little rubbish in it as possible: the sort you get after a long hot fire. Luckily my sister happened to have some. This came from a mixture of wood species (Cherry, Eucalyptus and general woody plants from the garden) that had been pruned and burned over the previous summer in a chiminea. This meant the ash was very clean and without contaminants like soil, which you might get from a ground fire. Anyway, my sister had collected all this ash in a bucket with the intent on using it to mulch the raspberries; but instead I jumped in and she very kindly let me have it!
First of all I had to clean the ash. This I did by sieving it to get rid of any last bits of twig, stone, carbonised lumps, leaves etc. I sieved it twice using the same sort of sieve as a normal kitchen/household size rather than a glazing sieve: and I wore gloves, goggles and a mask by the way as this stuff isn't too good for you if inhaled. The photo above shows the powder that was left. As you can see it looks very clean. I decided it looked good enough to use just as it was. Many books talk about washing the ash by soaking it, rinsing it and then drying it back to a powder. But this sounded obsessive and unnecessary to me! Instead I decided to use this powder as the dry ingredient in a recipe like any other.
|Sieving The Glaze|
After lots of little test batches, I decided on my final recipe. This is based on one found in Stephen Murfitt's The Glaze Book. The main ingredients are:
Wood Ash 38
China Clay 20
Although I've also added a percentage of Red Iron Oxide.
After measuring out the ingredients precisely using an electronic scale, I put everything straight into a bucket of water. Then stir! Simple really. Although it would be if I wasn't wearing goggles, a mask and gloves (the donning of which always seems to bring on fits of sneezing...) The pictures above show just a few stages of making up the glaze mixture, which include sieving it at least three times using a 60 mesh glazing sieve. The result is the lovely rose-pink colour of the raw glaze mixture in the last photo.
And then it's just a matter of glazing some pots. Above are a couple of photos showing me dipping a jug into the freshly made Wood Ash Glaze. And below are some photos of the latest batch of pots in their raw glazed state, ready to be packed into the kiln...
|Jug with Wood Ash Glaze|
|Glazed Pots Waiting for the Kiln|
At the moment I have no idea if these pots have worked. As I type, I'm actually waiting for the kiln to cool down enough so I can open it and see the final results. It's a bit of a nervous waiting game: it could go either way. Below is a test tile of what the glaze looked like during the testing stages. As you can see, it's a very nice simple wood ash glaze fired in an electric kiln. But tests are only tests, and glazes can behave completely differently when put on a pot. So we'll just have to wait and see...
|Wood Ash Glaze Test Tile|
this is awesome, thank you! and the results???ReplyDelete
also, what cone are you firing to?ReplyDelete
Hi, thanks! The results look like this:Delete
I don't use cones as I have a thermocouple - so I fire to temperature which is 1260 degrees C!
I think that's right around cone 8.Delete
Hi! It sounds really amazing and i would love to try it too! But i have one question: how did you get the other ingredients beside the ash? And did you bought them as a powder, or just as a stone? and how did you grind them?ReplyDelete
I hope you react! thank you in advance!
Hi, the other ingredients I order in powder form from my pottery supplier. No grinding involved! But of course it can be done if you find a natural source of the materials. But grinding natural flint etc is really a job for machines! Hope that answers your question!Delete
Hello, This, I'm sure, is a stupid question..but I'm just a newly to potting. What are the amounts you give after each ingredient? Woodash 38? Grams?ReplyDelete
Thanks for you patience in advance!
Hi Sandra, Sorry for the long delay in responding - busy moving house! The numbers after the ingredients in glazing recipes are parts in 100. This makes it easier for anyone to make any amount of glaze using any denomination (kgs or lbs) with the proportions staying the same. Hope that makes sense! JudeDelete
Thank you for sharing this information!ReplyDelete
Hi, thanks for this information, can you please tell me how much iron oxide you used?ReplyDelete
Hi, sorry for huge delay in responding! Only just seen your comment. I think it was 2 % Red Iron Oxide. That batch has all been used now. I have 2 big buckets of ash from the fire over the winter though which I hope to make into a new batch before the year is out. Where's the time go?! But hope to blog about the next batch too.Delete
All the best! Jude
I like how you explain to. Thks.ReplyDelete
Hi. I make earthenware pots. Can i use these same recipe for earthenware as well. Sorry This might be a lame question but i am a self taught artist and new in pottery.. please suggest any easy glase to try as a biggner.ReplyDelete
Hi there, sorry for not getting back to you until now! I confess I don't know if this recipe would work on Earthenware. I don't use Earthenware clay because it fires at a low temperature. But in theory ash glazes are usable on Earthenware and low firings because this is an ancient way to glaze. I can only suggest you do a glaze test inside a small bowl - that way if it's going to run it won't ruin a shelf! Good luck! JudeDelete